My interest in this region of France arose out of reading, at some time during the Covid years Naturetrek trip reports from an annual tour that comes here. Those quoted a plentiful range of Odonata being resident in the department of la Vienne and la Brenne Parc Naturel, lying broadly east of the city of Poitiers, a little over half-way between Paris and Bordeaux. Back then I decided I might relish the challenge of looking into it under my own steam.

Hence I included a three-day exploratory tripette in my agenda for 2023, subject to suitable weather conditions prompting another spontaneous departure. The expectation had been to travel by rail via Eurostar and Paris, that turned out to be worth almost £150. But finding that Poitiers has an airport to which conveniently timed Ryanairs from Stansted go for a walk on fare of £36, the whole thing seemed meant. And so I jumped on one of the latter.

The logistics turned out to be just as favourable. A 3km walk from the airport, there being as things turned out no buses, brought me to Poitiers’ TGV station opposite which was my suitable stop-over hotel for £42; and the car hire offices are in the same boulevard. Hence on the summer solstice morning of Wednesday 21st I collected my vehicle and set out upon the 20 km drive north-east to the Réserve Naturelle Nationale du Pinail, a 142 ha (350 acre) peat bog containing more than 3000 water-filled hollows created by past millstone quarrying.

Small Pincertail (male – top right) and Broad Scarlet (female – bottom right)

I made a number of circuits of the visitor trail (marked orange then white, above left) through the day. If you come here yourself start at the second, lower parking area in the illustration. The location is favoured by outlier populations of the Whiteface dragonflies, that France hosts five species of compared to Great Britain’s one. I was prioritising twin lifers Yellow-spotted (or Large) and Lilypad Whiteface but found neither. The Naturetrek group had double-connected for the first time here in 2022.

This was outstanding Odo habitat but vast and seriously off-piste, with limited opportunity to get down amongst the bog pools without heavy duty waterproof clothing such as angling waders. So as in Nestos Gorge in Greece last month I more or less had to rely upon what might perch close to the track. Every so often something did so, a token duo of which are presented above right. Whiteface emergence times vary season upon season to complicate the equation. Ultimately one day visiting solo proved an insufficient window in which to gain the desired results.

The butterfly highlight was a lifer, Large Chequered Skipper. The individual pictured below left was the only one to pose for the camera, but on reading up on the species back at home I realised I had crossed paths with several more. This insect has a highly distinctive, bouncy flight pattern which is described as resembling pogo-sticking on an invisible band of elastic, with little sense of direction. I noticed this in fly-bys over and again, but all bar one were not inclined to settle. The drab upper-side is rarely seen since LCS perches with wings closed. At rest the black-ringed, oval white under-wing spots on a yellow background identify this item unmistakeably; giving it the name le Mirroir in France from the suggestion of beads of condensation on a looking glass.

This most remarkable Skipper occurs across much of central and eastern Europe, though is absent from large areas and often localised. There are outlier populations elsewhere, including south-west France. The food plants are various grasses, on which the larvae feed then hibernate in a tube made from a folded blade. Adults fly in a single generation in late June and July. LCS mostly inhabits damp woodland clearings or sheltered hillsides, but is also a Pinail speciality. So having read that before visiting I was very glad to have come here at the right time to convert it.

I was also pleased to gain first ever pictures of Short-tailed Blue (above, centre). Though widespread across continental Europe in two broods from late April to August, I had encountered the species far less often in the past than the Lang’s variety. The patchily distributed former frequents flowery grassland and clearings amongst bushes and trees, often flying low and inconspicuously amongst vegetation as was my experience here. By far the most frequent butterfly in this location today was Pearly Heath (above right), most of which were rather past their best.

Being in France I appreciated having caught up with Edible Frog (above), an amphibian I had not recorded previously. These occur across much of Europe from here to western Russia, Estonia and Sweden, and northern Italy. Like other water frogs (Marsh and Pool) these are often active by day and like to bask in the sun. Males are usually green, paler in the breeding season, with dark brown or black spotting. Despite the name, this species is not alone in being a food for humans in different regions.

Common Wall Lizard (above) was a frequent encounter. There are 17 very similar, regional European species in this genus of reptiles, of which I had observed seven previously, and I assume this one is the “default”. It has a larger head and limbs than the British Viviparous (or Common) Lizard, and as with all small Lacertae exhibits very variable patterning. Most individuals are brownish or grey, often with black and white bars on the sides of the tail.

Unfortunately the next day, 22nd was washed out completely, which is always frustrating. So after calling in at visitor centres in la Brenne Parc Naturel to enquire about the best Odo locations I filled the time in any way possible. Later in the afternoon I reconnoitred a third site Étang de Plaisance that is said to host several species not found in the British Isles. But I encountered just two dragonflies there in heavily overcast conditions that persisted once the rain stopped.

That is where I started on Friday 23rd, a humid sunny day once more. The only dragonfly on the wing, though in good numbers was White-tailed Skimmer (above) that I had observed previously at Lake Kerkini, Greece in 2017. This patchily distributed species gets the name from its white anal appendages that stand out very clearly in flight. It has a generally sleeker build and jizz than the familiar Black-tailed Skimmers at home. From this region of France WTS ranges across much of south-eastern and central Europe then onward as far as China and Japan.

I had expected this location to be much wilder, but it was actually recreational in character and populated by not very welcoming anglers. It would probably have repaid more thorough inspection but I didn’t want to remain for too long before making the hour’s drive north to the Parc naturel régional de la Brenne. The vast 166,000 ha (410,195 acre),1672 sq km complex of marshland, reed beds, moors, prairies and woods contains 47 separate communes, more NNRs and over 2000 lakes and ponds

Arriving in the late morning I set about exploring the places recommended a day earlier. The first was an area designated la Réserve naturelle nationale de Chérine (above). This contains a 3 ha (7.4 acre) prime odonata site Terres de Picadon where I spent an hour making two circuits of the visitor trail which leads through several small to medium ponds, some specially created and each with a character of its own. As at Pinail actually walking around the water’s edge was not possible, and from the fenced-off access points no species of note were encountered. But my attention was caught by very fresh Great Banded Grayling (pictured below), that like all of their genus had a penchant for perching prominently on posts.

Great Banded Grayling

Next I moved on to Terres de Renard, a large étang around two sides of which runs a visitor trail that seemed to go on for ever. Once again I felt dependent on what might actually show itself close by the path and there was an array of common butterflies and other insects, but no real opportunity to observe dragonflies at close quarters. I kept hoping for Orange-spotted Emerald suspended within the track-side vegetation, or the enigmatic Western Spectre, but was not successful. Then after turning back things became a little bizarre.

I have never come face to face with a Crayfish before, but now a strange creature almost erupted out of the ground in the middle of the track as I walked. It seemed to display a similar lack of cohesion to the aforementioned Large Chequered Skippers, twisting round and round with limbs flailing in all directions. This was not just any but a north American Red Swamp Crayfish, which is classed as an invasive alien pest. Clearly they are well established here, as I had already noted a carcass, several severed claws and a cut in two Slow Worm along the trail; evidence I expect of their predatory habits.

A close encounter of the Crayfish kind

Wondering if my assailant’s odd posture was due to being half out of a burrow I gave it a little encouragement with a stick. Back at home I learned these crustaceans are indeed great burrowers. Now it rose up to face me head on and upon training the camera on it I could feel the dark, sharp little eyes glaring straight back at me. I am not sure if this (above right) is the threat posture or whether the Crayfish just liked having its picture taken.

At the parking area I had time for one more site visit before another hour’s drive back to Poitiers and the airport, and so transferred a short distance to Massé-Foucalt (no 2 on the map above). Parking in le Blizon I walked an interesting trail through more étangs and it was here that I at last gained two tripette odo lifers. Common Winter Damselfly (pictured below) as the name suggests is widespread throughout continental Europe south of the Baltic and has a season-long flight period. They occur around all kinds of well-vegetated standing waters. But we don’t have them in Blighty, and upon realising when compiling this post I had indeed self-found something new my little heart leaped.

That sense of satisfaction grew when I matched the item below to female Small Spreadwing (or Emerald). This is the most delicate of the European Spreadwings of which I have now observed all but one. For me the clearest diagnostics are the whitish sides to the brown ptreostigma (wing tags), and yellow back of head that just about shows in the image. Like CWD the species also has a wide continental distribution, and flies from April to November, its exact season varying from region to region. Neither of the two damselflies featured here were trip targets, I just self-found them at random which is what these off-beat, wandering exercises are all about.

Small Spreadwing

In the time I had allowed and with the lost rain day it was possible only to carry out an interesting if not over-productive reconnoitre in the “Land of a Thousand Lakes” as La Brenne is known. But this pleasant, unhurried region of rural France passed the always tricky test of what works or not in solo travel. There is huge potential for future visits here, especially given the convenient and affordable flights to Poitiers, and I now have an evolved alternative to re-working the British insect lists each summer if I wish.

The first part of this was the proverbial needle in a haystack. In planning my current wild Orchid agenda I especially wanted to experience the highly attractive Burnt (or Burnt-tip) rarity. In my home area it occurs only in a few non-disclosed locations on the South Oxon Downs, so this would entail a day tripette to the Cotswold Water Park in neighbouring Wilts.

Clattinger Farm (SN16 9TW – SU014932) is part of Wiltshire Wildlife Trust’s Lower Moor (see here) complex of farms managed by traditional practices. Historical records show that its SSSI-designated hay meadows have never been subjected to artificial fertilisers and agricultural chemicals, the only such lowland farm in Great Britain. Hence it is considered the country’s finest remaining example of enclosed lowland grassland, and of international importance for wild flowers. 

Burnt Orchid (left and right) and Southern Marsh X Common Spotted Orchids with guest

The question was exactly where to look. There was no specific information at the visitor centre and none of the volunteers could tell me either, so I set off to search at random. Prior to visiting I had no idea of just how large this 60 ha (150 acre) site is, there being 14 separate meadows in which I lost my sense of direction easily and a number of times. No other people I met walking around were serious Orchid hunters, which seemed surprising when this is an oft-cited location for the much-sought Burnt Orchid. Eventually I engaged with a local frequent visitor who gave me some vague directions, but still I drew blank.

As Bernwood Meadows, Asham and Wendover Meads were for Green-winged Orchid in May, so this site is for Southern Marsh Orchid. There are thousands of them here, a significant portion of which must be hybrids with Common Spotted Orchid. In amongst them were the fading forms of many gone over Green-winged Orchid. The first of those three varies considerably both in colour tone and the speckle and dash markings on its petals, all of which makes accurate identification of the species difficult. Preferring as I do to minimise scientific detail in this journal I will merely present the following sequence of purer and possibly more hybridised plants.

Southern Marsh Orchids or hybrids at Clattinger Farm

Round and round I trudged, always keeping to trodden paths and enjoying as at those local sites another “time capsule” from bygone years in which wild plants abound. The Burnt Orchids could be anywhere. Tiring by mid-afternoon, I decided to check-out that earlier advice again then leave, and this time walked on a little further. Now, in the far south-eastern meadow named Bridge Field on the reserve plan, that is considered the reserve’s best for wild flowers, I noticed a well trampled patch to one side of a trodden path … and there was my quest! It had taken four hours to locate them, cue celebratory WhatsApps to contacts who “keep me company” in the field.

Burnt Orchid (above) has 5 – 10 broad, erect leaves at the base of 10 – 50 cm tall stems. The initially dense inflorescence gets looser as the flowers open. The buds are dark red and as blooming advances the oval spike becomes bi-coloured – white at the bottom and dark red at the top – giving the whole a scorched appearance, hence the name. The species grows more usually on short turf and alkaline chalk or limestone soils, but much more rarely in meadows such as here.

Counting eight specimens at this spot, some of which looked emergent, I resolved to return in the hope of finding more. Later at home I matched this day’s wanderings to Google Earth and picked out the exact location of my success. The trampled patch is even visible in the aerial picture. The bottom line here is I achieved this largely unassisted, and the self-found things are always the best.

I re-visited five days later on Monday 13th in company with Ewan, this time taking the short route out and re-locating the Burnt Orchids straight away. Some of the previously featured specimens were already going over but there were now a total of 13 in the cluster. From what my more experienced companion and two other observers who joined us said these were all rather petite plants compared to what might be found here and elsewhere. Those pictured above were the more photogenic new ones. I was notified on Sunday 18th that six more good specimens had been found in “11 acres field” immediately to the west of where we had been successful.

Heading home on 7th I visited Tuckmill Meadow in Shrivenham, Oxon (SN6 8TB – SU240900) that has a colony of around 80 Southern Marsh Orchid. This gem of a LNR (see here) is managed by VoWH District Council and BBOWT in conjunction with volunteers, one of whom met me in the parking area and directed me to the plants. These were in the boggy bottom of the damp grassland site’s stream valley. They were much larger and more robust than the younger ones around Clattinger Farm, and all of the pure form (below).

Pure Southern Marsh Orchids at Tuckmill Meadow LNR

This Orchid is widely distributed in southern England, occurring in wet alkaline marsh and meadows especially on chalk soils, at road and river sides and also in former quarries and coastal dune systems. It flowers from late May to the end of July, with crowded cylindrical spikes on strong stems from 30 to 50 but sometimes up to 70cm. But the species is now lost from 20 per cent of its historic range due to drainage, ploughing and development.

Research had suggested I was in the best Oxon place to observe them, in preference to the frequently mentioned Parsonage Moor, and I wasn’t disappointed. Two days later on 9th I checked out that site and Oxford’s Lye Valley LNR, finding just five pure specimens between them and more hybrids at the latter.

Things begin to get serious at this stage of the season as more sought after wild Orchids enter the mix. The species experienced in Oxon so far are pretty widespread, but on the other side of the Chiltern escarpment to the east lie sites of renown offering specialities that draw enthusiasts each year in numbers, and those I now set out to explore.

I began at Homefield Wood (SL7 2HL – SU814867) early on a bank holiday Monday (29th), having been briefed that the Orchid season was well under way there. The site is renowned as one of only three nationally to host Military Orchid, and they certainly thrive here on today’s evidence. There are around 500 plants, some across a south-facing slope just inside the BBOWT reserve entrance, but mainly in an enclosed meadow away to the left that may or may not be publically accessible at the Trust’s discretion.

This mid-May to mid-June flowering species (pictured above) is well-distributed around central and northern Europe but one of Great Britain’s rarest. The flowers, clustered in a conical spike on a robust stem up to 60 cm tall, resemble human figures with outstretched arms, big feet and wearing a soldier’s dress helmet. The name also arises from vertical lines of dots on the petal below that hood which suggest buttons on a military tunic. This item grows on chalk grassland in the shelter of broad-leaved woods, and thrives especially in shaded old pasture with light scrub such as the enclosure here.

A second site stand-out was the rather intriguing Fly Orchid that offers a prime example of insect mimicry in plants to assist pollination. The well-spaced flowers on slender spikes resemble perched flies, complete with eyes and antennae. The cleverest bit is this Orchid does not produce nectar but a scent of female Digger Wasps’ sexual pheromones, so what would any passing male do? And thus the plant is pollinated. Uncommon in the Chilterns, these are plants of Beech wood edges and scrub on chalk and limestone soils.

I will admit to feeling a little underwhelmed by these seriously skinny items, that due to the minuteness of the flowers were difficult to gain sharp images of, but the left and centre ones in this sequence were the best I could manage (click to enlarge). Other new (for me) Orchids encountered on the day were two of the shade-loving White Helleborine (right, above), and a good-sized clump of Common Twayblade.

I encountered more White Helleborine three days later (1st) on a first visit to BBOWT Grangelands (HP27 0NB – SP828050) where good numbers grow along the edge of neighbouring Pulpit Wood (pictured below). One of the commoner of the Helleborine group of Orchids, this is a Beech wood specialist that occurs on calcareous soils through May and June, growing to 60cm in height. Since this plant is self-pollinating the creamy-white, egg-shaped blooms rarely open fully, so the specimen in the right hand picture was a bit of a find. Only common in southern English chalk and limestone regions, they take around 10 years to develop fully from seed. So I assume the larger items in these pictures were the more mature amongst my haul. Most at all four of this post’s sites had between three to six flowers at the top of the stem. I rather like them and enjoyed their elegance and simplicity.

Aston Clinton Ragpits

Masses of Common Spotted Orchid were getting going here, but it seemed too early for Chalk Fragrant. I nonetheless moved on seven miles to BBOWT Aston Clinton Ragpits (HP22 5NF – SP888107) which is renowned for a profusion of the latter. There young Chalk Fragrant Orchid were indeed erupting from the ground in abundance, together with Common Spotted across the former quarry site.

The first-named is the more delicate looking of the two and occurs from mid-May to July in dry and open chalk and limestone grassland such as this. The 20 – 50 flowers on densely packed, cylindrical spikes may range in tone from pink through mauve to reddish-purple, and occasionally white. They typically grow to 30 cm tall but can reach 50 cm or more. As the name suggests a quite intense sweet perfume is emitted, especially at dusk to attract butterfly and moth pollinators.

Young Chalk Fragrant Orchids

For me the stand-out in this location was numbers of Greater Butterfly Orchid (pictured below). I had observed these twice before in the region but enclosed in protective wire cages. Not so here and in an unfettered state I could appreciate properly their subtle and delicate beauty. This plant prefers light shade and is often found along woodland edges or in clearings, but it also occurs on chalk grassland. The greenish-white, rather waxy-looking flowers are loosely clustered on pale stems to 40 cm. As the name suggests they resemble hovering butterflies. At night a sweet scent of vanilla is omitted to attract the Hawkmoth pollinators that have suitably long probosci to enter the particular structure of the flowers.

An irony here was how after habitual frustration at grey conditions while butterflying I was now cursing the afternoon sun for making things too bright and glary for taking pictures of wild plants. So on 2nd I returned early in the morning to attempt images in a more suitable light. It should be apparent which of the above sequence were gained on each day. The duller light was more suitable for gaining adequate studies of Common Twayblade that grows in profusion across the Ragpits.

This inconspicuous plant is widespread though localised from May to July in a wide range of habitats: chalk downland, open woodland, fens, quarries; along disused railway lines and at arable field edges. It emits a musk-like odour to attract insect pollinators. The name refers to the pair of broad oval leaves at the base of the stem. The minuteness of the yellow-green flowers on long and wispy stems (pictured below) makes them difficult to capture detailed pictures of, but the following are my better results. Shorter specimens best conveyed their blooms’ resemblance to clusters of tiny people, but the great majority were much taller and often in extensive clumps.

Common Twayblade

On Monday 5th I visited the Warburg Reserve near Henley (see here) that is said to boast BBOWT’s richest array of Orchids, comprising 15 species. My impression from this day was apart from the more frequent wild flower meadow varieties these may take a bit of searching out. Fortunately there is a visitor centre at the main entrance (RG9 6BJ – SU721 878) to assist, where sightings are posted on a poster-sized site plan, and I was also briefed by the warden.

I especially wanted to experience the yet to be seen Bird’s-nest Orchid, a honey-coloured shade lover of Beech woods on limestone soils. These are said to be quite widespread in such habitat, but I located just one today (pictured below). It displayed the species’ special feature of the flowers being clustered towards the top of the stem with just a few spaced more widely lower down. I thought it looked a little past its best but now read this plant typically resembles withered stems from the previous season.

Nearby I also found a single Fly Orchid (above) in the area I was advised to look in, before moving on to seek out more Greater Butterfly Orchid (below) at a field edge to one side of the reserve’s northern access point from Maidensgrove. In between the two locations I walked through some of Warburg’s wild flower meadows, where as at Grangelands young Common Spotted and no doubt other frequent Orchids were emerging from the ground ahead of their annual grand displays.

On 14th I paid another visit to Grangelands to experience the Chalk Fragrant and Common Spotted Orchids in full cry. In amongst them, here and there rather more vivid Pyramidal Orchid (pictured below, left) had now entered the mix. One of the more familiar encounters from my casual interest of the past, this is a widespread species of calcareous grassland, flowering from June to August. The clean, bright blooms vary from deep cerise to violet or purple, and as they open the spikes’ shape changes from pyramid to globe. They are pollinated by butterflies, day and night flying moths and become strongly scented in the evening to attract the last of those.

I had been told on the earlier visits here where to locate both Musk and Bird’s-nest Orchid. Though there had been a thundery breakdown in the current heat-wave over the weekend, the former had still not emerged. But I did find one of the latter on a steep Beech wood slope below Pulpit Hill fort and above the reserve’s Rifle Range area. It was much smaller and had an even more gone over look to it (above right) than that earlier Warburg item.

Aston Clinton Ragpits

The display of Chalk Fragrant, Common Spotted and other Orchids at Aston Clinton Ragpits on this day was simply incredible, though difficult to capture adequately in pictures in the glaring sunlight. Of all the sites I have visited in 2023 this is undoubtedly the richest. But I noticed plants were going over quickly in the continued hot, dry conditions of this post. Amongst the Pyramidal Orchids (pictured below) I was pleased to locate a few of the white variant. This is a scarcity in Great Britain but has established some stable colonies, and enquiry revealed it is regular here.

Footnote: Through the second half of June, Pyramidal Orchid was the stand-out interest as I re-visited various Oxon and Bucks sites. It was a very hot weather month that served to cause the big displays of Common Spotted and Chalk Fragrant Orchids to go over quite quickly while the first-named of these three frequent species thrived. Those weather conditions did not suit the Grangelands Musk Orchids that I sought a number of times, eventually finding just three plants that had already gone over soon after my previous attempt. It now remained to cover some late summer Orchids, particularly Helleborines and hence my attention turned elsewhere.

Since it was recorded in my home county for the first time this century at Banbury in 2020 (see here and here), Oxon Odo enthusiasts have uncovered more Scarce Blue-tail colonies at new housing developments in Didcot and Grove. This damselfly tends to occur in the transient habitat of “storm water ponds” and flooded ditches that recent and active building sites provide, and this year I decided to get around all the locations as they are reported. The prize is the orange teneral female form Aurantiaca that holds a special fascination for me. Why go to the New Forest (see here) when I can now observe them locally?

This year’s first sighting came from Didcot on 27th May, and after being briefed by the finder Ian Lewington I went to take a look six days later. What awaited me on the sunny Friday afternoon of 2nd was a superb wildlife eco-system in the form of twin, reed-filled storm water ponds on the edge of Dida Gardens new homes (SU509910). I was about to learn that many such developments have these features, to collect surplus rainwater run-off and prevent flooding, and they are quickly colonised by odonata and other invertebrates. This one has been here for just three years.

I made two circuits of one small pond, picking out a male Scarce Blue-tailed Damselfly amongst plenty of other blue damselflies and several Large Reds. Some Dragonflies were also on the wing: Hairy Hawker, Four-Spotted Chaser and Black-tailed Skimmer. Then, retrieving my hiking pole from the car I checked out the larger second pond that was a little more off-piste.

On my re-emerging from that enclosure Ian, who lives nearby was walking towards me. So I was able to exercise a preferred option of letting him do the work in finding an Aurantiaca. It didn’t take long until he located one at the edge of the small pond which then drifted out to surrounding marginal vegetation. That made the young lady easier to get close to and she was very co-operative, perching in long grass (pictured above) and not moving too far when disturbed. After I left Ian amassed a total of eight male and two immature females at this site today.

So this was a successful start to my year’s Aurantiaca quest, but by my next tripette abroad on 20th there had been no further Oxon sightings elsewhere. Male and mature female SBTD were in that time recorded at all three sites of recent years. If there is new build housing near you, and where isn’t there in southern England (?), go and check it out for less frequent damselflies like this one and Small Red-eyed. To me the storm water ponds’ presence is a win win situation, but I cannot help wondering how many home buyers might appreciate those treasures on their doorstep.